✦ The Truth About Gold-Plated Jewelry: Why “Non-Tarnish” Isn’t Always the Gold Standard
There’s a quiet romance to vintage gold-plated jewelry - that soft, lived-in glow, the way it catches the light like candle flame instead of glare. But as more modern brands advertise non-tarnish, waterproof, and “wear it everywhere” jewelry, many collectors start to wonder: why can’t my vintage pieces do that too?
The answer lies in both technology and intention - and it’s part of what makes vintage gold plating so beautifully human.
✦ A Quick History of Gold Plating
Long before the rise of “gold vermeil” and PVD coatings, artisans used a process called electroplating - layering real gold onto a brass or copper base using electricity and time.
Companies like Napier, Monet, and Trifari perfected this craft during the mid-20th century, creating jewelry that gleamed like fine gold but was accessible to all. The plating was thick, rich, and warm - often 20–23K gold over heavy brass. These pieces were made to last decades, not seasons.
But they were never meant to be indestructible. They were meant to be cherished.
✦ What “Non-Tarnish” Means Today
Fast forward to now, and the language has changed. When modern jewelry brands say “non-tarnish” or “waterproof,” they’re often referring to PVD coating (Physical Vapor Deposition). It’s a high-tech process that bonds a gold-colored layer onto stainless steel or titanium using heat and vacuum pressure.
The result? A finish that resists fading even in water. It’s durable and low-maintenance - perfect for everyday wear.
But it’s not gold plating in the traditional sense. It’s more like a gold-colored shell fused onto metal - sleek, efficient, but lacking the organic depth of old-world plating.
✦ Why Vintage Is Different (and Better)
Vintage gold-plated jewelry - like the Sky Held Still Napier necklace from the 1970s - was crafted in a time when jewelry was meant to feel precious. The gold layer was thicker, the base metal heavier, and the finishing done by hand.
That’s why your vintage pieces glow instead of shine. Why the gold feels warm, not metallic. Why they’ve lasted fifty years and still hold their color - even if you can’t wear them in the shower.
Modern “non-tarnish” pieces are convenient.
Vintage gold-plated pieces are alive.
✦ How to Care for Vintage Gold-Plated Jewelry
Your vintage treasures deserve a little tenderness.
Here’s how to help them endure another fifty years:
- Avoid water and chemicals. Remove before bathing, swimming, or applying perfume.
- Store softly. Keep in a cloth pouch or jewelry box, away from humidity and friction.
- Clean gently. Use a dry, lint-free cloth only - no liquid cleaners or abrasives.
- Wear intentionally. Think of each piece as a companion, not an accessory. The more care you give it, the longer its story will shine.
✦ The Beauty of Care
Caring for vintage jewelry isn’t just maintenance - it’s ritual.
When you wipe down a clasp or fasten a chain with intention, you’re continuing the lineage of everyone who ever wore it before you.
At The Inheritance Collective, we don’t just collect jewelry - we collect stories. And stories need care, not convenience.
Because in the end, the goal isn’t to keep gold from tarnishing - it’s to keep meaning from fading.