Why 1950s Costume Jewelry Is More Valuable Than You Think
There’s something about mid-century costume jewelry - the glimmer of rhinestones, the confidence of gold-tone metal, the unapologetic glamour - that feels eternal. What was once considered “faux” is now coveted, collected, and commanding prices that rival fine jewelry. But what makes 1950s pieces so special and so valuable today?
1. Postwar Optimism in Metal and Stone
After the austerity of the 1940s, the 1950s burst with abundance. Designers like Trifari, Coro, and Miriam Haskell embraced lavish, feminine designs to match the era’s mood. Jewelry reflected a return to luxury, even when the materials weren’t solid gold or diamonds.
Gold plating became thicker, rhinestones more refined, and settings more secure. A good piece from this decade wasn’t just an accessory - it was a statement of optimism, craftsmanship, and pride.
The production value was so high that many unmarked pieces from the 1950s through the 1970s are often gold- or stone-tested by jewelers. Their artistry can so closely resemble fine jewelry that it’s difficult to tell the difference without professional evaluation. That’s how elevated the craftsmanship was- intricate designs, heavy settings, and luminous stones that were created to imitate excellence, and ended up achieving it.
2. The “Golden Age” of American Design
This period marked a creative high point for costume jewelry in the United States. Brands invested in in-house designers and European-trained artisans, resulting in pieces with intricate construction and artistic integrity.
One of the most legendary figures was Alfred Philippe, a French jewelry designer who worked for both Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels before joining Trifari in 1930. Philippe revolutionized costume jewelry by applying fine-jewelry techniques, such as invisible settings and prong-mounted rhinestones, to non-precious materials. His designs elevated Trifari to global fame and set the standard for luxury costume jewelry.
Meanwhile, in Paris, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli were redefining adornment. Chanel popularized the idea of mixing real and faux jewels — layering ropes of glass pearls and gilded chains to create her signature look. Schiaparelli went the opposite direction, creating surreal, avant-garde pieces that blurred art and jewelry entirely, often in collaboration with Salvador Dalí. Both women helped free jewelry from the idea that it needed to be “real” to be remarkable.
A 1950s brooch or necklace from Trifari or Haskell wasn’t mass-produced the way modern costume jewelry is today - it was assembled by hand, often with glass stones imported from Austria or Czechoslovakia.
3. Quality That Stands the Test of Time
Unlike the lightweight, glued-together costume pieces that dominated much of the late 20th century, mid-century jewelry was built to last.
That said, a few houses like Monet, Napier, and Givenchy continued producing high-quality costume jewelry well into the 1980s and 1990s — maintaining real plating processes, hand-set stones, and sturdy designs. But the 1950s still stand apart as the pinnacle of durability and artistry.
Platings were electro-bonded, clasps engineered for security, and many designs used rhodium finishes to resist tarnish. It’s why a seventy-year-old Trifari bracelet can still gleam like it came out of its box yesterday.
People are often surprised by the value of these pieces. At a recent market, a woman told me my prices were out of her budget - that she could find “great-looking style pieces” for $30–$40 online. And she’s right. Fast fashion jewelry can be cute for a few wears. But it isn’t made to last. It’s not meant to be repaired, treasured, or passed down. Those aren’t TIC-worthy pieces - they’re disposable sparkle.
My friend keeps telling me I need to advertise that these pieces won’t tarnish. She’s right. Fast fashion brands now market “waterproof” gold jewelry with clever fine print: “You can wear it in the shower, but you shouldn’t… but you can… but only for two years.” Meanwhile, these high-quality costume pieces from the 1950s and beyond - many of which have already survived generations - will still be luminous when you pass them down to your daughters one day.
4. Mid-Century Style Is Forever
The clean lines and bold femininity of 1950s jewelry pair effortlessly with modern wardrobes. A vintage crystal collar necklace over a crisp white shirt. A pair of clip-on earrings adding instant polish to a casual outfit. These pieces bridge eras and are wearable relics of elegance that feel timeless rather than nostalgic.
At the same time, avant-garde houses like Schiaparelli pushed the boundaries of what jewelry could be. Surreal eyes, oversized florals, and asymmetrical gilded forms appeared decades before “statement jewelry” became a trend. Today, those designs feel just as daring, which is proof that the true innovators of mid-century jewelry were not just designers, but visionaries.
5. Collectability and Rarity
Many 1950s pieces were produced in limited runs. Once a mold was sold, it was often destroyed, making surviving examples especially sought after. As collectors recognize their rarity, prices have risen sharply, particularly for signed pieces in pristine condition.
At The Inheritance Collective, when we find a piece, we don’t just clean it - we research its history. We trace its provenance, look for original advertising images or catalog records, and whenever possible, learn who owned it. When sourcing, we look to reputable estate sellers and auction houses like 1stDibs, Chairish, and EraGem for comparables - not fast resale sites - because we value pieces that have been respected, preserved, and documented. These are investments in artistry, not just accessories.
So, When We Say “Wear It to Remember”, We Mean It
Each 1950s piece carries the spirit of reinvention - of women reclaiming glamour in a world newly in bloom. When you wear mid-century costume jewelry, you’re not just embracing a vintage look; you’re honoring an era of craftsmanship, optimism, and audacious beauty.
You’re also choosing sustainability -giving exquisite metal and stone new life instead of supporting the waste and environmental toll of modern mass production. By supporting local businesses and vintage dealers, you help keep craftsmanship and community alive, all while circulating wealth where it matters most. At home
In a world that moves too fast, these pieces remind us that true beauty endures.