The Ember Ring, Retro Platinum Ruby and Diamond

A ruby cabochon at the center, domed and unfaceted, the color of wine held up to a candle. Around it, platinum ribbons curl open and closed, set with old European cut diamonds that were shaped by hand before anyone decided what a diamond was supposed to look like. Two square step cuts sit at the corners like punctuation.

Sanskrit called the ruby ratnaraj, king of gems. Burmese warriors were said to carry them into battle, and not for the look of it. The stone was believed to hold life force, the same red that runs through you, which is why it was worn by people who fully intended to come back.

The mounting is platinum stamped 10% iridium, the alloy American jewelers reached for when they wanted lace that would not bend. That stamp, with the mix of old European and square step cuts, places this in the 1930s and 40s. Someone commissioned it. Nobody makes a thing like this by accident.

It sits at a size 4, which is small, and the shank is plain at the back, which is exactly what a bench jeweler needs in order to open it up. It comes in a faceted crystal box, deco cut, the kind made to sit on a dressing table and be looked at.

Details

• Platinum, stamped 10% IRID, ninety percent platinum with ten percent iridium
• Ruby cabochon, approximately 0.75 carat, oval
• Diamonds approximately 0.50 carat total weight
• Two bezel set old European cut diamonds flanking the center stone
• Two square step cut diamonds
• Single cut diamonds through the openwork scrollwork
• Ring size 4 US, plain shank at the back and sizable by a platinum bench
• Circa 1930s to 1940s
• Excellent vintage condition, all stones present and tight
• Faceted crystal presentation box included

Wear it to remember: the red in you was never decorative.